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The Mold tool turns a model into a printable mold that comes apart. It works out which way the pieces separate, cuts at the widest section, keys the halves together, and drills the pour hole and the air vents. Print it, close it, and pour silicone into it.
The tool tries each of the three axes as the direction the halves pull apart. For each one it counts the undercuts: places where the mold would sit over a surface it would have to lift off. A ring comes apart along its hole, not across it.
The cut goes at the widest section. That is the opening the cast part has to come out through. One cut gives two pieces, and two cuts give four.
Placed at the highest point of the model, so the mold fills from the bottom and the air rises. Silicone is thick and slow, so make the hole generous.
Thin holes at every other high point, where a pocket would hold a bubble as the silicone rises. They only have to let air out. Turn them off if you do not want them.
A dome on one face of every joint and a socket in the other, so the pieces close one way round only. Set the key size to 0 for plain faces.
A scan with hundreds of thousands of triangles is too heavy to cut exactly. Detail sets how finely it is sampled for the mold instead.
Two, or four if the tool found a second cut worth making. The panel says what it found.
How finely the model is sampled. Used only when the model is too heavy to cut exactly.
Material between the model and the outside of the block. A thicker wall is stiffer and uses more filament.
Its width across. Silicone is thick and slow, so a generous hole is worth the material.
Their width across, and a switch to add them. They are thin, since they only let air out.
The width of the registration keys across. 0 leaves the faces plain.
Room between a key and its socket, so the halves close. 0.2 mm is the start.
More tool guides: Cladding · 3D textures · Windows · Doors · Voronoi · Connectors · Align to face · Fill up · Pivot · Download 3DFastCraft, free